K. Wah News & Feature Stories
Cantonese cuisine – tradition and innovation
Helming Hoi King Heen for 25 years, Leung Fai- hung, Executive Chinese Chef of InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong and one of Hong Kong’s most decorated top Cantonese chefs, has recently talked with us, sharing stories and moments of his life as a chef over the past 40 years, as well as his commitment to promoting Cantonese cuisine.
40 years of fine cooking
Chef Leung started his career in the catering industry in 1979 at the age of 24. He joined Hoi King Heen of Holiday Inn Harbour View (now known as InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong) in 1995 and was subsequently promoted to the position of Executive Chinese Chef. According to Chef Leung, Holiday Inn Harbour View was one of the most prestigious hotels in the city during those days and was planning to open a new Chinese restaurant. So he obliged without hesitation when his mentor invited him to join the culinary team there. Despite working in a hot environment, the kitchen is where Chef Leung belongs, a place which brings out the best of his abilities. His passion for cooking, coupled with the great satisfaction that the words of praise from customers have given him, urged him to come out of retirement and return to Hoi King Heen. “My love for cooking has never waned. During my short retirement in 2014, I couldn’t help to make a few dishes at home from time to time, as I found it difficult to stay away from the kitchen,” Chef Leung recalled.
Passing on the heritage of the Cantonese cuisine: a worthy mission
Chef Leung agrees that the primary job of a Chinese chef is to produce great food that give patrons an exquisite dining experience but, more importantly, he or she should endeavour to pass on the skill. “For a Chinese chef, it’s not just about making a table of gratifying dishes, we must also pass on the traditional culture and cooking experience in the Chinese cuisine. It is a huge responsibility,” he said. Chef Leung has a strong interest in re-inventing classic dishes in the Cantonese cuisine to enhance diners’ understanding of the traditional food culture embodied in the Cantonese cuisine.
Chef Leung’s deep affection for the classic Cantonese cuisine is well underlined in the feature menu produced last year in celebration of the 40th anniversary of his career. The menu was dominated by classic dishes, including some Cantonese cuisines the recipes of which are known to fewer and fewer cooks. In addition, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Hoi King Heen, Chef Leung also launched improved versions of six classic nostalgic dishes in March and April, to mark this important milestone of Hoi King Heen.
Emphasis on teamwork and spirit
As one who has benefited from the guidance of a number of mentors in the profession, Chef Leung appreciates the importance of passing on the experience. “I see the reinvention of traditional dishes as a means to sustain the heritage of the Cantonese cuisines. Passing on my knowledge to younger chefs would be another way, and I consider this my prime responsibility.”
Chef Leung never treated his subordinates as apprentices. Nice and accessible, he sees his colleagues rather as “partners”. Chef Leung still gives lessons at the Chinese Culinary Institute from time to time, sharing experiences of his work as a chef with students to get them prepared for the future.
Words of advice to young cooks
Chef Leung believes the profession as a chef will bring an immense sense of satisfaction and fulfillment, as one can satisfy diners with his or her invented dishes, as well as develop friendships by sharing insights into food and cooking. He encourages young people to join the profession, for even though the path of a chef is a long and challenging one, with determination and perseverance, one will be blessed with a meaningful life by doing what one enjoys as well as achieving career success.
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